• As of January 1, 2018 The brand new logo that was created and released in 2017 will be the only official logo in affect and allowed to be used on any electronic media however, any such media like truck wraps, stationary, and postcards will be grandfathered in. Contributing Members will be allowed to use the UAMCC logo in any advertising. Permission to use the logo otherwise must be in writing. Logos used in electronic formats (ie: Websites, forums, etc.) must be linked back to the member’s profile in the UAMCC directory. Contributing Members are members that are paid and current with their dues. Please contact info@uamcc.org with any questions.

Downstreaming 15:1, like a watered down rum n' coke

Robert Quinn

New member
So, I've been playing with my new unit "no pun". I've noticed the mix I'm spitting is really weak. I checked my owners manual out, and it states the downstreaming is around 15:1 :saai: Unfortunately in FL, I only know of 10.5% SH to mix, and don't know of a place to go to 12 - even if that would make a difference...

So what do I do now?? I am trying to do roofs and concrete as well as exteriors. Commercial and residential. Obviously the roof cleaning is not going to be done by this unit- I have to get a pump for that. Am I looking now to use a seperate pump for all my mixtures??

FYI- I am using a 4000psi, heated 4.2GPM trailer mounted rig. I have both downstream and before the pump mixture capabilities. I am too new to make an efficient decision about what to do. :confused:
 

plainpainter

New member
Why not measure what the actual downstream ratio is to double check it? Just put 4 gallons into a 5'er and top it off to the very top - and you'll be able to effectively clean down to 17:1 no problem.
 

Guy Blackmon

New member
Rob, when mixing house wash, whats your mixture? FYI, you won't be very effective on roofs DS'ing, you need a mix thats a least 4-6%+ bleach to kill roof stains
 

Robert Quinn

New member
Well for the roof, I was planning on going to Bob to assist me with a Delavan. (The only issue there is I need a 4 wheel cart to keep the battery upright- not the prefab'd dolly he sells for 429).

I am still playing with the housewash mix. Any help here would be a GODSEND! I am going to measure the ratio tomorrow to see what I've got going on.

So If I am feeding from a 5'er filled with 10.5%SH and Housewash at 4:1, I should in theory still be strong enough to have an effective wash after DS'ng at around 15:1 ???? :Smiley-2006: I think I just hurt my head a little bit !

Bear with me here- I am learning as much as I can and desperately trying not to be the average 5month - 1 year long pressure washing business!!!

-Bobby
 

John Orr

UAMCC Treasurer
First of all, lose the upstream injector - there really is no need to run chems through your pump. Second, whoever you get a downstreamer from, make sure it is rated for your machine. As I recall, 1.8, 2.1 and 2.3 are the most common sizes. Lastly, when using the correct downstreamer, you will need to experiment with the ratios. My mix will vary depending on what I'm cleaning and even the ambient temperature.​

John​

By-the-way, ALWAYS carry a spare ds'er or 2! Feel free to call me if I can help.​
 

plainpainter

New member
Just remember - a 5'er is really 6 gallons when filled to the very brim, if you put in 4 gallons of 10.5% that's the same as 3.5 gallon of 12.5%. And you still have an extra 2 gallons left to put in your soap. I can clean 17:1 with that mix, sometimes you need to reapply to really bad spots. But you find out quick 90% of what you wash doesn't need an ultra strong mix to clean up. Heck 5 gallons of 6% and 1 gallon of 'soap' would still yield a 0.33% bleach on the wall strength with 15:1. I've cleaned mildew even at those rates, although I'd drop the simple cherry type soap and substitute something stronger like TSP to make that weaker concentration of bleach more effective.
 

Robert Quinn

New member
First of all, lose the upstream injector - there really is no need to run chems through your pump. Second, whoever you get a downstreamer from, make sure it is rated for your machine. As I recall, 1.8, 2.1 and 2.3 are the most common sizes. Lastly, when using the correct downstreamer, you will need to experiment with the ratios. My mix will vary depending on what I'm cleaning and even the ambient temperature.​

John​

By-the-way, ALWAYS carry a spare ds'er or 2! Feel free to call me if I can help.​

Thanks for the advice. I was looking at the super suds sucker last night. And checking out some more downstreamers today.

I also think I made it a plan to do a few jobs, and then upgrade and rearrange the new trailer to include a delevan 5800 DC pump, and run another 200' chem hose off of it for the roof. I have a tank installed for the upstream that I am using as a secondary mixing tank for DSing. I dont use the upstreamer --- it is just a flick of a valve on my system... But again- I dont use it or plan on using it!! :)
 

John Orr

UAMCC Treasurer
If you have a Northern Tool nearby, for $20 you can get a DSer. The 1.8 is for 2 to 3 gpm machines, 2.1 is for 3 to 5 gpms and the 2.3 is for 5 to 8 gpms.
 

Robert Quinn

New member
If you have a Northern Tool nearby, for $20 you can get a DSer. The 1.8 is for 2 to 3 gpm machines, 2.1 is for 3 to 5 gpms and the 2.3 is for 5 to 8 gpms.

Im going to play with it some more. I cant understand why the ratio is so high. This is how my setup works: I install the flood nozzle, and turn my valve from my mix tank line to open. The machine will only siphon with the flood nozzle on. It will not siphon when there is back pressure from a high pressure nozzle. That bein said, it is sucked into the hose using venturi flow, much like the aftermarket DS'er. The difference I see, is that it has to travel through my 100' or more if I'm extended to come out of the hose. I could see where, if the water is heated to 180F, I could in essence be burning some of the SH off... making it less effective, or less concentrated.

I think I just had a moment.

On a side note. I am waiting for my graphics to get put on my truck. The same guy is doing my business cards... I want to get this stuff together before I solicit bids, so as to look the part of "professional". I got the goods at a great price! He is the boyfriend of a girl who works under my wife at her law firm. BUT HE IS DRAGGING HIS FEET....:frusty:

I pass by a Wachovia EVERY DAY that is SCREAMING for a cleaning! I just need the WOW factor to nail it....Im convinced.
 

John Orr

UAMCC Treasurer
Im going to play with it some more. I cant understand why the ratio is so high. This is how my setup works: I install the flood nozzle, and turn my valve from my mix tank line to open. The machine will only siphon with the flood nozzle on. It will not siphon when there is back pressure from a high pressure nozzle. That bein said, it is sucked into the hose using venturi flow, much like the aftermarket DS'er. The difference I see, is that it has to travel through my 100' or more if I'm extended to come out of the hose. I could see where, if the water is heated to 180F, I could in essence be burning some of the SH off... making it less effective, or less concentrated.

I think I just had a moment.

On a side note. I am waiting for my graphics to get put on my truck. The same guy is doing my business cards... I want to get this stuff together before I solicit bids, so as to look the part of "professional". I got the goods at a great price! He is the boyfriend of a girl who works under my wife at her law firm. BUT HE IS DRAGGING HIS FEET....:frusty:

I pass by a Wachovia EVERY DAY that is SCREAMING for a cleaning! I just need the WOW factor to nail it....Im convinced.


The longer the hose, the more back-pressure you create. 200' is about my limit with a "normal" DSer. If you keep it under 100', you should be fine. As for heat making SH less effective, think about your laundry...hot water and bleach works best for whites. The heat will actually make your SH more effective. Many will debate that heat is not needed, but I have washed thousands of houses in the last 10 years, quite a few multiple times, and I can assure you that heat (not too hot or you run the risk of breaking the seal on thermal pane glass.) makes for a quicker job - especially when rinsing the second or third story.

In order to draw the highest ratio, larger diameter tips are needed. For distance, I use air hose barbs screwed into 1/4" quick connect. Various sizes are available, I use them all.
 

John Tornabene

Member Guest
By the X-jet for about $150. You'll never regret it. We have done building houses you name it even roofs where the x-jet can be use just dipping it into the chlorine can and get about a 2-1 draw. Here is a picture of one of my x-jet set-ups on the back of my trailer.
 

Attachments

  • red trailer pictures 007.jpg
    red trailer pictures 007.jpg
    47.9 KB · Views: 31
Top