• As of January 1, 2018 The brand new logo that was created and released in 2017 will be the only official logo in affect and allowed to be used on any electronic media however, any such media like truck wraps, stationary, and postcards will be grandfathered in. Contributing Members will be allowed to use the UAMCC logo in any advertising. Permission to use the logo otherwise must be in writing. Logos used in electronic formats (ie: Websites, forums, etc.) must be linked back to the member’s profile in the UAMCC directory. Contributing Members are members that are paid and current with their dues. Please contact info@uamcc.org with any questions.

oxalic

Steven Mendez

New member
Good afternoon,

what would be the longest a piece of stripped wood could go before it needs to be neutrilized? I will be stripping a deck on monday and will be starting with the ballusters and rails. should i neutrilize those after stripping or can they wait a couple of hours and neutrilize the entire project at the same time?

thanks gents,

EDITED,

After more investigation I have come to the conclusion that i will neutrilize as i go. strip, wash and neutrilize ballusters and rails. s/w/n/ steps, stringers and hand rails, and so on. I am just not interested in leaving the stripper on the wood any longer than I have to.
 
Last edited:

Charlie Soden

Contributing Member
I've even come back the next day to brighten on one occasion when we ran out of time. Not the best idea to wait that long but it came out fine
 

Steven Mendez

New member
ok cool,just wasnt sure on how long i could wait and now i know . the strippping process shouldnt be more than a couple three hours for me so I will do the whole thing and then brighten.

Thanks Charlie. ( of course its pouring out up here this morning so i have to hurry up and wait )
 

John Orr

UAMCC Treasurer
As I understand it, sodium hydroxide is active when wet, so if the deck dries, it stops "cooking". The problem is that, until neutralized, the SH will reactivate every time it gets wet - so you're OK unless it rains. A few hours? I wouldn't worry, though if there is any furring/fuzzing of the wood, I would neutralize ASAP.
 

Steven Mendez

New member
so does the ox actually stop the s/hydroxide from working?, hence the " neutrelizeing". and could you please elaborate for a minute on why to neutralize asap if the wood is fuzzed or furred.

thanks Steven
 

John Orr

UAMCC Treasurer
so does the ox actually stop the s/hydroxide from working?, hence the " neutralizing". and could you please elaborate for a minute on why to neutralize asap if the wood is fuzzed or furred.

thanks Steven

Yes, the oxalic instantly stops the SH reaction.It also brightens the wood. As for the "fuzzies", of the spindles - and I'm only addressing PT decks - are usually made with new growth lumber and have more of the softer heartwood - which makes them more susceptible to "fuzzing".

Safety Note: When working with SH, if you get it on your clothes, rinsing with water alone will not stop it from eating your flesh. If I get any on me, I apply some oxalic, then rinse with water. I speak from experience that it's critical to neutralize the SH that you get on your skin or clothing. In a pinch, vinegar - even some soda that has citric acid will work.
 

Steven Mendez

New member
Thanks,

extra thanks for the saftey note. gloves, eyewear, and all the needed ppe will be used. I am a STRONG BELIEVER IN SAFTEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

David Phillips

UAMCC Associate Member
Keep a bottle of vinegar and a bottle of ammonia or bag of baking soda with you at all times. Never know when a spill or accident can happen, especially when using stronger acids and cleaners.
 

George Clarke

UAMCC Board of Directors
I keep vinegar. If you ever pour SH in your shoe, you will need it fast. David, explain the ammonia and baking soda since we're not use to working with acids.
 
Top